Sunday, February 28, 2016

And the Oscar for best makeover goes to ...... CAULIFLOWER SOUP!


Sometimes the remakes are better than the original. That's definitely the case with this soup.  I tried making it last Friday but production stopped when it basically caught on fire on the stove.  So, Cauliflower Soup - Deuxover was born.

Cauliflower is one of those vegetables that can become a canvas for whatever you'd like it to be.  In the old days, it was purchased frozen, usually in a bland mix with broccoli and carrots, and then boiled to a soggy death and served alongside some kind of horror like potted ham.   Today, Cauliflower has taken on a completely new life as an A-list vegetable.  Everyone wants cauliflower at their dinner parties these days.  A quick search on Pinterest shows this star's versatility as pizza crust, mashed faux-tatoes, fried "rice", cauliflower tater tots, cauliflower tortillas, buffalo cauliflower wings -- you name it and cauliflower has played it.  But these roles don't do it justice.  Life as a celebrity is hard.  Unfair even.  With all these varied roles, cauliflower has lost itself.

I'd like to take a step back and suggest that cauliflower should be respected for what it is, as it is. That's why I love this recipe. It plays up on the best features of this vegetable - using its mild taste and creamy texture to present a rich and comforting dish for cold winter night.  It can be basic or elegant, depending on how you dress and finish it.  In my version, I went for simple sophistication with a healthful twist.  I used earth balance spread instead of butter and substituted some of my homemade stock for the cream.  I also skipped the double pass through the chinois and just relied upon the puree power of my high speed blender.  But for the cup of wine, I used one of my best bottles of sauvignon blanc-semillon blend and drizzled the finished soup with truffle oil - sort of the Harry Winston jewel to complement the understated framework of the soup.   The result was sheer perfection.

The original recipe came from Jason Burton of StellaCulinary.com.  You can find the video here: https://stellaculinary.com/cooking-videos/sauces-soups/sns-011-cauliflower-soup-base

My adapted version follows.

Cauliflower Soup Deuxover

1 stick (1/2 cup) butter or margarine
2 tbsp canola oil

1 medium yellow onion, peeled and julienned
2 large cloves garlic, minced
1 large leek, white part only, cleaned and sliced
1 large shallot, peeled and julienned

2 cups chicken stock
1 cup good quality, full bodied white wine
Salt

1 head of cauliflower, stem and core removed, thinly sliced
2 additional cups chicken stock
1 tsp xanthum gum
1/2 tsp white pepper
1/2 tsp of salt or to taste

Truffle oil, slivered lemon peel and chiffonade of basil for garnish

In a heavy saucepan or dutch oven, heat the oil and butter and add the onions, garlic, leek, and shallot. Sprinkle with a light rain of salt, then saute until starting to soften.  Add the white wine and cook for 2 minutes then add the stock, stir, and cover.  Reduce heat to low and simmer for 1 hour.  In the meantime, thinly slice the cauliflower.  After an hour has passed, add the cauliflower and the additional 2 cups of stock to the pot. Return to high heat until starting to boil then reduce to low again, cover, and simmer for another hour to allow the flavors to fully develop.

Pour the soup into a high speed blender taking care not to overfill (the hot soup will expand as it blends).  Puree for about 2 minutes, then add up to 1 tsp Xanthum gum to thicken and emulsify the soup.  Test seasoning and add the white pepper and additional salt as needed. Blend again to mix the seasonings, then serve with a drizzle of truffle oil and a sprinkle of slivered lemon peel and basil chiffonade for garnish. Or get creative. Crispy bits of pancetta, thinly sliced, sauteed brussels sprouts, or any number of other garnshes would both look pretty and taste great.




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